First Roll of Film

Preparing Chemicals - The Chemistry should be at about 68 degrees.

I pour the chemistry into pitchers and place them in front of each labeled bottle. This ensures you don't accidentally use the wrong solution.

Film Developer - Mix  ILFOSOL 3concentrate at 1 to 9.  You will need at least 30 oz. of developer, or 3 oz. of concentrate to 27oz. of water.  Mix with paddle.  This is a one shot developer and is disposed of after use.

Stop Bath – Premixed by teacher.  Check the color.  Yellow is Ok.  A violet color means the stop bath is exhausted.

Film Fixer – Premixed by teacher.  Place one drop of Fix-a-sure into the fixer.  If a white cloud develops and remains the fixer is exhausted.

Photo-flo – Mix 40 oz. of water with one cap full of Photo-flo.


Go over the Processing Steps before beginning!

1. Developer
2. Stop Bath/Wash
3. Fixer
4. Wash
5. Photo-flo
6. Drying

Developing

Fill the tank with developer, then start the timer. Bang the tank against the edge of the sink a few times to dislodge any air bubbles (this is especially important if you're using a large tank). Agitate the tank for 10 seconds every minute by rocking the tank back and forth, or if you're using a plastic tank, by spinning the "stir stick".

Develop for 8:00 minutes.

When the development time is finished, pour the developer into the large tank for separate disposal.

After learning to use your camera, shoot a practice roll of film. The subject matter is unimportant. This roll of film is about learning the developing process. Take your photographs outdoors! Without a flash, you will not have enough light to get good exposures.

Remember the SAFE method!

1. Shutter Speed
2. Aperture
3. Focus 
4. Exposure

Developing Process

Stop Bath

Pour stop bath into the tank. Agitate constantly for about 10 seconds.Let sit for 25 more seconds.  Return the stop bath to the bottle.

Fixer

Pour Fixer into the tank, and set the timer for 5 minutes. Agitate the tank 10 seconds every minute. Whe the fix time is finished, return the fixer to the bottle.

Wash

Remove the lid of the tank, and place the reel into the film washer. Wash for 5 minutes. Make sure the water is reaching the top and then empting. (Sometimes it sticks and you must knock the side of the washer.

Photo-flo

Place reel in the photo-flo. Agitate for 20 seconds.

Drying Film

Hang the film to dry.  Clips are under the sink.  Use a weighted clip at the bottom of the roll.  Normally, a roll of film will take about three hours to air dry completely. 

Important: always handle wet film by its edges only! Fingerprints and dust on the film during drying are very difficult if not impossible to remove later.

Remember, Dust is the Enemy!

Decorating Your Camera

Assignment: 
Transform your camera into something completely different.

 We have all kinds of materials available for our transformation.

• Plastercraft
• Felt
• Balsa Wood
• Raffia
• Wire
• Acrylic Paints
• String
• Yarn
• Foam Core
• and much more.

Some Considerations

• Think of objects that are already cylinders. (Batteries, Light House)
• Don't bite off more than you can chew. With enough time you can create almost anything, we don't have forever!
• A simple armature can be made out of bundled paper towels and masking tape. Cover it with plaster craft to create heads.
• Use acrylic paint, not tempera.
• The hot glue gun is your friend!
• Every day junk can often be turned into something else.

Here are a couple of examples of previous student work.

New Digital Assignment

Your next assignment is Money! 

Yes it's an open ended subject, but thats the whole idea. I want you to think about a creative visual solution to this topic. Closeups, money being passed, banks, some serious "bling". You get the idea. Here is my shot. I desaturated it in Photoshop and increased the contrast to give it more impact.

Write a short paragraph about your concept.

"My photograph explores the concept of being "blinded" by wealth and prestige. Some value money above all things....but you can't take it with you. The ancient Greeks buried their dead with coins on their eyes, a toll payed to be carried over the river Styx. Are we paying too high a toll in this world. Do we amass wealth at the expense of things of higher value. There is so much value in the simple act of living.

Your digital camera or smartphone should have a closeup feature. Explore how close you can get and still get a focused image. Read your camera manual for more information on this feature. Each camera is different.

This is a typical Macro icon seen on many cameras.

You only need to submit one image, but make sure it's your best effort. It's always best to take plenty of shots. Even today's smartphone cameras will take a burst of 5 shots and let you pick the best one. 

Sepia Toning

Sepia toning is a process that gives a photograph a warm brown tone and increases it's archival properties. (How long it will last) The image is first bleached to turn the metallic silver into a silver halide. The print is washed to remove the bleach then it is immersed in toner which converts the silver halide into silver sulfide.

You must Sepia Tone your "Close-up" or "Selfie" pinhole image and Mount it!!

Process:

1. Immerse the print in the Bleach Bath and agitate it for a out 6-8 minutes until most of the image has disappeared or turned yellow. I like to leave some areas black for contrast. (Wear Goggles and take care while using bleach! It can damage your eyes!!)
2. Rinse to remove bleach. (2 minutes)
3. Place the print in the Toner Bath and agitate until the image completely fills in with warm browns.(60 seconds)
4. Rinse thouroughly for 2 minutes.
5. Fix for two minutes.
6. Wash for 4 minutes.

Pinhole Close-up

The Debris of Life

I took this photo of a pile of broken dolls as an example of what can be done with a pinhole camera. One of the greatest attributes of a pinhole camera is its almost indefinite "Depth of Field". Everything from close up to far in the distance appears to be somewhat in focus.

Assignment - Find some small objects that are meaningful to you in some way. Pose the objects in an interesting still life and photograph them with your pinhole camera.

Make a positive print and dry mount it. 

Debris of Life (Paper Negative), Manny Boccini

Debris of Life (Positive Print), Manny Boccini

Pinhole "Selfies"

Apparently "Selfie" was awarded the "2013 Word of the Year"  by Oxford Dictionaries".

We've all done it with our cell phone or a digital camera. There seems to be some kind of human urge to take one's own photograph. Maybe it has something to do with the fact that Photographers are often left out of the image. I know that I'm missing from many family photographs, because I was the person behind the camera.

Your assignment is to use your camera to take a self portrait. Here are a couple points to consider:

• This will be an exercise in self control. You must remain as still as possible, or your image will be blurry.
• You may ask a friend to open and close the shutter.
• Get close to the camera. Your Pinhole Camera is a super wide angle image maker. In my self portrait below, my hand is practically touching the camera.
• Stay in the sun, short exposures will give your clearer results.
• Scan your negative.
• Duplicate it in Photoshop. Invert the duplicate to make a positive. Adjust the image using Image/Adgustments/Brightness Contrast.
• Save both images as JPEGs and post on your blog.

Halloween Pinhole 2015

Negative

Mr. B 2013

Negative

Making a Pinhole Camera

Most students are incredulous when I tell them they will be making their own camera. When they find out just how simple it is to do, they are even more surprised.

Every camera, from pinhole to the most sophisticated, has five basic parts. By working with a simple pinhole camera, we can better understand the Single Lens Reflex cameras we will use later in the year.

1. A light tight container
2. An aperture (opening)
3. A shutter
4. A viewfinder of some kind.
5. A film transport system.

This tutorial is similar to my demonstration.

How to make a pinhole camera.

Assignment: Build a working pinhole camera. When you are finished, follow these steps.

1. Is your camera light tight? _______________________________________________________
2. What is the aperture of your pinhole camera? Divide the focal length (distance from the pinhole to the negative plane) by the diameter of the pinhole (0.0010)  Your result should be somewhere around f500. ________________________________________________________________________
3. Using a 20 second exposure as a benchmark for a sunny day, make a series of test exposures to determine the best exposure time for your camera.
• If the initial exposure is too dark, half the exposure time.
• If it's too light double it. Us this sheet to record your test information.
• Every time you double or half the time, you have changed the exposure one stop.
• Make sure to weight your camera down with a book or other heavy object. Camera movement will blur your image.
• Remember to stay as still as possible. Movements during log exposure will create bury images. Your may ask a friend to open and close yhour shutter for you.
• Do not shoot into the sun. 

1st Test Strip (list conditions, time of exposure and result).

_____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

2nd Test Strip (list conditions, time of exposure and result)

_____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

3rd Test Strip (list conditions, time of exposure and result).

_____________________________________________________________________________

_____________________________________________________________________________

4. My best exposure time in bright sunshine is _______________________________________________
5. Shoot your self portrait and develop your negative.
6. Make a positive print from you negative.
7.Sepia tone your print.
8.Dry mount the print.

Collage Photogram

Gabby C. 2013

This third photogram is really an example of "Copier Arts". 

Process:

Construct a Collage out of images that reflect you. Use magazine images or photos you've printed off the web. Paste it up on the 5x8" oak tag that is provided.

1. Scan the image and print it.
2. Cut it out to its edge. This will become your "paper" negative.
3. Use test strips to determine the correct exposure and make a print. The resulting image should be a negative one. (Whites are black, blacks are white)
4. Use your new image as the next "paper" negative. Your next image should be a positive.
5. Dry mount the two images next to each other. If you wish you may also mount the original color print.

First Digital Assignment - Compositional Balance

Photography is no different than other fine art in that it uses the same elements and principles of design. Only the medium changes, you still need to work within the "rules" of art. 

When you created your "Found Object" Photogram, you  considered how your image is balanced. Is your design symmetrical, asymmetrical or radially balanced?

Show me you understand each type of balance by shooting an image that shows each type. Post to your blog.  Add information about the location or subject. These are examples I photographed during the last summer.

Symmetrical Balance, Mr. Ricci's 47 Chrysler Town Car
Mahopac High School, Summer 2016

Asymmetrical Balance - Sunflowers being raised to make oil,
Lagrange, New York

Radial Balance - Window at World of Wings Museum,
Teaneck, New Jersey

How to Dry Mount a Photograph

Dry Mounting

Assignment: 
Dry mount both your "Found Object" and "Stencil" photograms.

How to:

1. Determine the size of  the mat by first measuring the photographs size. Add 6 inches to the width of the image. Add 6.5 inches to the photos height. For our 5x8" image we will need an 11.5x14" mat.
2. Do you want white or black for your mat? Cut the mat to size.
3. Make sure the press is preheated to 170 degrees. (Remember to check, sometimes someone will play with the dry mounting press and change the settings.)
4. Preheat the tacking iron. Remember this is very hot and can cause severe burns. Always rest it on it's cradle.
5. Place the image face down on a clean surface. (white oak tag)
6. Position a sheet of dry-mounting tissue over the photograph.
7. Attach the tissue to the print. Remember to only touch the iron to the print for a brief moment, or you will damage the front of the print.
8. Using a T-square and cutting board, trim the photo and tissue. They should be the same size when your have finished.
9. Mark the mat board.
10. Position the photo on the mat board and tack it on. (one side is sufficient.)
11. Place the image into the press photo side up. Cover with a clean slip sheet. (White oak tag)
12. Close press for 1 minute and 20 seconds.
13. Remove image and place a heavy weight on it. (books)
14. Use a kneaded eraser to clean up any pencil marks.
15. Lightly sand the edges to remove any tear out from the cutter.

It sounds difficult, but once you've done it it will become second nature. There is a reason I had you practice using an x-acto knife!

Stencil Photograms

Photo-grams come in all types, your "imagination is your only limitation"! I've even had students use crickets as the subject for found object photo-grams!

For our second photo-gram, we will cut a stencil out of black construction paper. Instead of placing objects on the enlarging paper, you will use your paper stencil. We will compress the enlarging paper and stencil together using a contact printer. F-stop and time will remain the same for this project.

Subject:
The subject for this image is "geometric shapes" or a design created out of your "initials". Make sure you use the idea of "repetition" in your design. Notice the repeating curves in the example below.

Objective: 
Practice using an x-acto knife, continued practice with the enlarger and print developing process.

Things to consider:

• Design your image so the stencil won't fall apart.
• Always cut away from your holding hand.
• If the paper starts to tear, ask me for a new blade.
• Keep your cuts as clean as possible.

Here is an example of a "geometric shape" photo-gram. Notice the edges are kept intact.

Found Object Photograms

Photograms, sometimes known as "shadow pictures" were first created by American photographer Man Ray. The images are made by positioning objects over enlarging paper and then projecting light on them. Areas that are completely covered will develop out white and those areas illuminated by the enlarger light will be black. Different values of gray will occur when some light passes through and object or wraps around a curved object.


Assignment: Your first photogram is a free choice image. The main purpose of this project is to let you become familiar with the use of the enlarger and the print developing process. You choose the objects, but make sure you consider the composition you create.

• Make sure it is balanced Symmetrically, Asymmetrically or Radially.
• Try to have an even  balance of white and black areas in your image.
• Make sure objects "bleed" off the edge of your image. "Avoid a "fish tank" image"..

Steps:

1. Raise the enlarger head as high as it will go.
2. Open the lens to F8
3. Set the timer to 10 seconds
4. Place a piece of enlarging paper (5x8) on the base of the enlarger.
5. Arrange you objects in a pleasing composition.
6. Expose the paper.
7. Develop out the paper. 
• Developer 2 minutes
• Stop Bath 30 seconds
• Fixer 2 minutes
• Wash 2 minutes
• Air dry print or run it through the print dryer.

A New Year

Photography Course Outline

Description: Photography is a basic introduction to taking photos and processing them. We will be working in Black and White, but will also address digital photography and photo manipulation in Photoshop. The Nature of Photography requires a “stick to it” attitude.

• If you do not deal well with failures, do not take this class.
• If you are not willing to spend time in a small dark room, do not take this class!
• If you lack patience and perseverance, don’t take this class.

Materials

Each Student will be provided with 25 sheets of 8x10 paper, 5 Rolls of Tri-X film (one of the most forgiving films available) and 5 negative sleeves. Because the class has now been changed to a full year, additional materials may have to be purchased for the second semester.

Film is inexpensive, but you can easily get carried away and shoot hundreds of exposures.  One of these rolls will be use to practice, while the others will result in projects. You must realize that you will make mistakes and may ruin a roll or two.  This is a part of the learning process.  Even experienced photographers have a disaster from time to time.  Photographic chemicals are provided by the school.

Enough paper is provided to meet the basic demands of most projects. If you want more prints, you must purchase the paper.  Printing paper can become costly, the larger the sheets the more it will cost you.  In graduate school I used dollar sheets of paper.  Enough dollar mistakes taught me to do things right the first time.

Camera

Naturally each student must have a "Film"camera.  The ideal camera would be a Single Lens Reflex Camera or SLR.  Rangefinder type cameras are Ok, but the cameras must be capable of changing aperture and shutter speed (manual control).  Disposable cameras are not acceptable. The art department has several cameras that can be loaned in the case of equipment failure. They cannot be used for the whole year.

Digital cameras are also needed for several projects. Cell phones be used, but must have a resolution of at least 5 megapixels.

Class Structure

Photography includes a series of processes. Physical limitations of our darkroom limit the number of people who may print at any one time. We will often split into groups.  When one group is printing, another may be developing film, hand coloring a print, mounting prints or reading an article. Passes will be issued for those needing to sheet photos within the school.

Some Projects

• Photograms and Negative less Images
• Pinhole Cameras
• Hand coloring photos
• Digital Photography
• 3-D Images
• Lighting
• Exploring other formats (Holga Toy Cameras)
• Digital Photo Restoration.
• Being artists
• Other cool stuff

Attendance

You are all aware of the attendance policy. After 25 absences you will loose credit for the class. You can expect me to follow the policy exactly. I record lates!!! If I can get to class on time, so can you. Learn Responsibility.

Grading Policy

A late and great art teacher at Mahopac once said, “Good enough is never good enough!” (Jim Townsend) Honor Jim’s memory by never needing to ask if your work is good enough. Always strive for the very best work and you will be the very best.

Brancusi, a famous sculptor said, “Work like a slave, create like a god”. Do you want to be a slave or god? If you know that you have put everything you have into your work, it will probably result in a grade that you want.

Final Exam – There is a “Final Exam/Project” for this class. The grade breakdown is 22% for each quarter and 12% for the Final.

Cleaning Up

You are responsible for leaving the darkroom in a clean and orderly fashion. If you expect to have quality work, you must work cleanly!

PLEASE NOTE:

Extra help will be available by appointment. I’m flexible!!

Blog:  bphoto2016.blogspot.com

You can contact me via E-mail at: boccinim@mahopac.k12.ny.us

My phone extension at the High School is #11416

Assignments are posted in Infinite Campus. Examples of each project will also be physically posted in Room 42.

That’s about it. I started my photography career at age 14 and I’ve never regretted it. (I never seem to be in many family pictures though.) I hope it’s as satisfying for you, as it has been for me.

All the best,

Mr. B